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Author Topic: DIY SRI Install With Heat Shield  (Read 4110 times)
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Kaotic
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« on: March 07, 2010, 02:22:20 PM »

*Disclaimer: I am in no way responsible or liable for any damage or injury that may occur by following this guide. Do so at your own risk.*

Okay, this is for a K&N Typhoon SRI kit, but should be similar to other SRI kits.

Tools needed:
Flat Blade Screw Driver
Phillips Screw Driver
Ratchet wrench
Extension
10mm Socket
3mm Allen Wrench
10mm Wrench

Time needed: anywhere from 1 to 2 hours depending on how experience you are and if you take your time. It took me a little more than 2 hours with taking pictures and cleaning up.



Step 1
Disconnect the negative battery terminal (if you have a strut bar, you will most likely have to unbolt the driver-side one to do this).


Step 2
Unhook the MAF sensor and unclip the harness from the intake box.


Step 3
Unscrew the two screws holding the MAF sensor in place, and gently and carefully remove the MAF sensor. Make sure you do not touch any part that goes inside the intake pipe. Place it somewhere clean and where it won’t topple over.


Step 4
Pull out the vacuum switch (the light blue thing where all of the vacuum lines are going into) from the rubber holder. It’ll take some effort to remove. Also unhook the vacuum line from the intake tube.


Step 5
Unhook crank case vent tube.


Step 6
Loosen the hose clamp that’s near the throttle body (sorry, forgot to take a picture).

Step 7
Unhook the top of the intake box and pull it, along with the intake tube out and air filter.


Step 8
Unbolt these two bolts from the lower portion of the intake box.


Step 9
Remove the lower portion of the intake box. Note how tiny our stock throttle body is.


Step 10
Remove this rubber grommet by pushing the bottom towards the hole and pulling the top.


Step 11
Remove this nut (located to the bottom and right of the throttle body). Picture should be vertical, not horizontal.


Step 12
Obtain proper bracket and put it through the bolt and lightly tighten with the nut removed from step 11. This will be tightened later.


Step 13
Install silicone coupler and tighten the hose clamp at the throttle body side. Keep the hose clamp at the intake pipe side loose. Sorry no picture.

Step 14
Obtain proper bracket and bolt from your intake kit. Order goes: 25mm bolt, ¼” washer, bracket, 1” fender washer, mounting point (on car), ¼” washer, 1” fender washer, lock washer, and nut. Tighten down lightly.


Step 15
Install edge trim onto heat shield.


Step 16
Obtain proper bracket and install on to the bottom of the heat shield. 16mm bolt, ¼” washer (mounting point, refer to step 17), heat shield, ¼” washer, lock washer, and then nut. Tighten lightly.




Step 17
Install heat shield. Bolt down bracket to the lowest mounting point on the left side. Tighten lightly.


Step 18
Bolt down the side of the heat shield to the bracket from step 14. Lightly tighten at first. Arrange the heat shield so that the brackets from step 14 and 16 are both secured to the heat shield. Tighten down all the ways the bolt/nuts at these brackets.


Step 19
Obtain new intake pipe and install MAF sensor into it. I reused the factory screws. You can use either the supplied bolt or the factory screws.


Step 20
Install the new pipe into the silicone coupler. Lightly screw down the hose clamp for now. Bolt the bracket from step 12 onto the bottom of the pipe using a 16mm bolt, lock washer, and ¼” washer. Tighten the hose clamp the step earlier. Also tighten the bolt from step 12.


Step 21 (optional as it is not necessary, but will make step 22 easier)
Remove this vacuum line from the vacuum switch.


Step 22
Remove this screw from the vacuum switch, and unhook the harness from the clip on the other side of this bracket. Set the bracket aside.


Step 23
Obtain proper bracket and screw and install them onto the vacuum switch (screw uses the 3mm allen wrench).


Step 24
Locate the radiator fill neck and remove the left bolt (sorry no picture).

Step 25
With the 20mm bolt, lock washer, and ¼” washer, lightly bolt down the bracket from step 23 in the location from step 24.


Step 26 (if step 21 was done)
Plug the vacuum line from step 21 back in.


Step 27
Reconnect the MAF sensor to the harness.


Step 28
Reconnect the crank case vent tube from step 5.


Step 29
Obtain air filter, place proper hose clamp on it. Slide the filter through the heat shield and connect to the new intake pipe. Tighten the hose clamp now.




Step 30
If you haven’t done so already, with everything in place, tighten any remaining loose bolt/nuts. (no picture)

Step 31
Reconnect negative battery terminal.


Step 32
Reconnect strut bar (no picture).

Step 33
Double check all lines are plugged back in if they were removed and double check all bolts and nuts. (no picture)

Step 34
Start engine and listen of any abnormal sounds, if absent, close hood and drive normally down the street with windows down, listening for any abnormal sounds (sucking sound is normal). If absent, you’re good to go. Rotate the air filter once-in-a-while to prolong its life. Service filter when ever it’s too dirty.

« Last Edit: March 07, 2010, 02:29:22 PM by Kaotic » Logged

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« Reply #1 on: March 07, 2010, 02:44:29 PM »

nice install Laz.. Wink
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« Reply #2 on: March 07, 2010, 03:01:07 PM »

nice install Laz.. Wink


Thanks Smiley


Oh, and on a side note, my car feels like it gained back the low end that it lost due to my 2.25" exhaust system.

Also got this (51.5 mpg) in driving 33.2 miles and averaging 62 mph.


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« Reply #3 on: March 07, 2010, 03:03:07 PM »

what's your average prior to the install?
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« Reply #4 on: March 07, 2010, 08:10:02 PM »

nice DIY laz.... yeah, whats your milage before the install? hows the performance? Cheesy
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« Reply #5 on: March 08, 2010, 10:25:09 AM »

very extensive Laz! good one!
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« Reply #6 on: March 09, 2010, 05:57:58 AM »

Going at that rate (average of 62mph on the freeway) and distance, I would say anywhere from 45-47.5 mpg.

It feels like I picked up all of the low end that I lost due to my 2.25" exhaust. Much better now. I also slipped on a K&N DryCharger prefilter to repel any water and as an additional filter. Freakin' awesome kit!
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« Reply #7 on: March 09, 2010, 08:23:53 PM »

"K&N DryCharger prefilter" what does this look like?  Cheesy
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« Reply #8 on: March 10, 2010, 10:11:17 AM »

"K&N DryCharger prefilter" what does this look like?  Cheesy


It goes around your intake filter and repels water from getting in.







Works great at repelling coffee.

















lmao, j/k. That's the fake coffee spill I bought for my mom.
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« Reply #9 on: March 10, 2010, 10:25:16 AM »

so thats a pre filter! I wonder if thats available here...
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« Reply #10 on: March 10, 2010, 12:30:00 PM »

so thats a pre filter! I wonder if thats available here...


Ordered mine from Amazon.com.


There are two types of K&N pre-filters, their DryCharger and their PreCharger: http://www.knfilters.com/search/wrap.aspx
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« Reply #11 on: March 10, 2010, 07:41:07 PM »

nice  Cheesy hope thats available here.
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« Reply #12 on: March 11, 2010, 01:26:59 AM »

nice  Cheesy hope thats available here.

Yeah, I think it'll really help out during monsoon season over there. Injen also makes their version of the DryCharger called, "HydroShield". For both, you'll just need to find out the dimensions of your existing open element filter and get the correct pre-filter.
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